The #6 Fore Plane.

[Gilbert Fredrickson]

Discuss. I have one. I love it, though it has a corregated sole. I have a #5 Stanley Jack Plane that also rocks.

[Adam Savage]

Well, thats a rather open question
I too have a No 6 (by Clifton) alongside several other planes (5 1/2 LN, couple old Stanley 4 1/2, a Stanley 7 and a few LV's and wooden planes). I am unconvinced that there is much benefit over a 5 1/2 - the extra sole length is minimal and the blade width the same. I do prefer the greater heft of the 1/2 size planes, and the larger soles for that matter - my hands dont really fit well around a size 4/5 handle.
There is no comparison between the surface quality of a piece of timber planed with a well sharpened blade and that achieved by machine. Machine = quicker, hand = finer and more easily adjusted.
I cant comment on the diffences between manufacturers of the No6, but I love the Clifton for it's solid build-feel and the blade - takes a supremely good edge, though I havent quite got my head around the advantages of the 2-piece cap iron... Owning a LN, I assume their 6 is just as well machined, and imagine that those offered by Record/Stanley will undoubtedly work well when fettled appropriately, but will not work quite so well straight-from-the-box (whether 2nd hand or not) as a LN/LV/Clifton....

Cheers.
Adam

[Dave Hooper]

I have both the number 6 and 7. My No.6 is a Stanley and my No.7 is a Record, I have other planes (3 x No.4,1 x 41/2 and a few others).

I prefer my No.6 for jointing backs and tops as its heavier than my No.7, I use a shooting board with the plane. I also changed the blade to a Japanese blade which holds an excellent edge, produces laser thin shavings and its a pleasure to use

I used to use the No.7 when I was working as a Cabinetmaker primarily for shooting the joints on long boards; which it did very well

I think the main thing is to make sure that the blade is sharp and properly set-up

Dave

[Clay Schaeffer]

The number 6 has the reputation as a plane without a well defined purpose, unlike the no.7 and no.5. As such, nice ones are often sold for bargain prices on the used tool market. It can be used as a heavy jack or short jointer by adjusting the frog appropriately. Its usefulness depends as much on the user's mindset as the tool.

[Bob Hammond]

A long time ago when I couldn't afford almost any tool, I found a Stanley #6 in near-pristine condition and I bought it for $20. It suits my body size and most of the kinds of work that I've done. It's about condition and sharpness, and how it fits your needs. A #6 works for me.

[Dan Miller]

I've got a full range of planes from #3 through #8, including several 1/2s and 1/4s, and duplicates of most or more (not so much a collector as a reformed tool-monger)... yet for some reason, I reach for the No. 6 (a Sargent VBM) way more often than the 5-1/2 or 7. Don't know why, just do.

[Paul E Buerk]

I used my old Stanley #6 last night, joining some back plates. Done in seconds. I used to own a Stanley #7C, thinking that it was somehow necessary, but sold it on craigslist years ago since it rarely got used. Only thing I'd like more on my #6 is a good Hock iron, but the old one is functioning OK.