Cutting F holes in existing guitar?

[Barry Daniels]

Not impossible for an experienced archtop builder. But definitely impossible for a first timer.

Normally when installing the f-hole binding you do it before the top is glued to the rims. This gives access to the inside of the plate which is very helpful.

[Mario Proulx]

We need to mention, also, that since the guitar's interior wasn't meant to be seen, it's likely not so pretty in there.

If you really want to continue(not recommended...), all you need to do is drill out the rounded ends of the F holes with the proper size bits, and with a fresh, sharp blade in a utility knife or similar, cut the rest out. Pull the knife slowly, carefully along the lines, using barely enough pressure to cut the surface. Repeat, always using very light "passes" until you cut through. About every 1/16", you need to make a "waste" cut by cutting at an angle(from the waste side of the F hole!) to give your knife more 'kerf'. And keep the knife sharp!

I've not searched, but I bet a google search on how handmade violins will show the method. It's how I still cut F holes in mandolins today.

But again, you're likely to regret it if you do go ahead and do it. Maybe get yourself some 1/4" plywood and practice the cutting on that, first.

[Claude Diatomae]

Thanks all for the tips. Probably will never get done, but it's interesting anyway to know the process. No guitar was harmed by this thread!

[Andy Birko]

I'm about to try doing exactly what you're recommending Michael, just without the binding afterward for a sound hole in an instrument I'm building right now. The details of the rosette are too delicate to survive a trip to the buffer so my 8 year old suggested that I buff first, then cut (I have a CNC machine) so we'll se how it goes!

[Andy Birko]

I guess it worked. Sanding the fuzz off the back side was tough but possible. Used a downcut bit and the edge of the finish is nice. Sealed the sides with shellac.

[Steve Senseney]

Pretty!

How are you going to do any repairs inside that instrument?

Can your 8 year old get his hand inside?

[Dave Stewart]

Yikes. Outstanding Andy!

[Michael Lewis]

Very nice Andy.

[Andy Birko]

How are you going to do any repairs inside that instrument?

I'm not a repairman. Let him deal with it.

[Mario Proulx]

Sweet! Looks so delicate(and likely is).

If the fuzz was a PITA, for the next ones you could use a downcut bit to cut half way through(or even just to score-through the finish), then switch to an up-cut to complete.

[Andy Birko]

Thanks guys!

To reinforce, I HHG'd very thin calf-skin parchment to the back side. That stuff is super tough and I think even if the wood cracked the parchment would still hold together.

Mario, I had considered doing that but at first I did a bunch of shallow oversized cuts leaving about .005" and then a full depth cut to clean out the cutter marks on the side. I was worried that aggressive cuts would move things around too much (the top is designed to vibrate of course!). I think that perhaps a more aggressive approach would have left less fuzz even with just a downcut bit as I'm suspecting that my feed rates were so slow that the bit was dull by the end of the job (cutting at 30ipm - quite slow)

[Andy Birko]

Oh and to bring it back on topic, I think this proves that f-holes could certainly be added to an existing guitar without damaging the finish. Depending on how drastic the arch is at the location of the f, it could be probably be done using an 1/8" compression bit (upcut on the bottom, downcut on the top) which leaves a great edge on both sides.

[Claude Diatomae]

I guess it worked. Sanding the fuzz off the back side was tough but possible. Used a downcut bit and the edge of the finish is nice. Sealed the sides with shellac.

Very nice job indeed. Compared to this, cutting F holes would be a walk in the park, (for someone with the right level of skill and experience).

[Angelo Pacifici]

Wondering if anyone has tried this on a Gibson 335 that does not have f-holes ala BB King?

[David Schwab]

I like the Country Gent and other Gretsch guitars but never could quite get with the painted F hole thing. I think *that* ruins the guitar for me. Painted F holes look cheap and cheesy to me. They do make a version of the Country Gent with real F holes but not in left handed. Hence the desperate measures one might consider to obtain what one wants...

Repaint the guitar with no f holes. That looks better to me than with real f holes!

[Ben Castellana]

Being left-handed myself, I definitely empathize with your dilemma. We definitely get stuck with pretty limited choices by guitar makers. It's one of the main reasons I started building my own guitars.

As a kid I once fantasized about converting my re-strung, right-handed, 1979 Gibson SG to a left-handed guitar. I wanted to fill in the control cavity and route a new one on the proper side. I still have the guitar, unmolested, except for 30 years of mishaps in various clubs and parties. I cringe every time I think about how bad it could have gone, especially every time I see an SG with that very modification for sale on the net. I also installed a Khaler vibrato on my 1981 Gibson Flying V, which basically ruined the guitar. I've since adopted the mantra of leaving well-made, great-sounding guitars be. I still happily mod cheapies, and I'll leave the cheap-untouchable threshold up to each reader/player/modder.

My advice is to spend some quality time with the great folks on this website and learn to build a left-handed archtop to your specifications. I'm tooling up to do just that right now.

Best of luck!