neck shaping jig

[Chris Walsh]

There was some discussion earlier about uses for a pin router. Well, here's one that is extremely helpful and a real time saver. Basically, you secure the neck (to be routed) on a template of the neck. I used a half inch baltic birch. Use index dowels and clamps etc...you don't want this thing shifting around on you. Set up entry/exit points at the heel and nut. Use a 3/4" roundover bit w/bearing 2" cut width. Run a couple of scraps through there for final tweeking...and you should be good to go. Edit:....Oh yes...technically...it is no longer being used as a pin router...but you get the idea. There is a similar type thing on youtube...Martin I think is his last name? This idea has been long brewing for me...didn't have a real pin router until a few weeks ago. Oh...yes...don't forget your shim under the nut area for your taper.

[John Hamlett]

I used a similar jig in a shaper (big, 5 HP 3 phase shaper) at the shop where I once worked. It is indeed a time saver, especially with woods like curly maple where a draw knife just doesn't quite do the job. Just make sure your locating mechanism and attachments are very secure!

[David King]

So do you take multiple passes until you get to depth?

[Chris Walsh]

Hi David....well you can if you'd like, and I guess it all depends on what dimensioned stock you're dealing with. Typically, at this point in the game you have a neck app 3/4" thick. You are only trimming roughly 1/8" on the back of the neck at the nut end. You've band-sawed as near the neck outline as possible, so you are not removing a great deal of material either from the side or back. But definitely, the secret to success with the pin router, I have found, is to take very controllable/several passes with, I prefer, no more than 1/4" depth (pickup cavities, body outlines etc). This procedure is by no means a finished product...but it sure helps to get you started.

[Jason Rodgers]

Wow, 1/4 inch? Do you have some big Hp behind this thing, as John describes?

[Don Williams]

I wish it were that easy for an acoustic neck! Nice looking setup though.

[Chris Walsh]

well Jason...it's a 3.5 hp variable speed Porter Cable Router...I don't normally do 1/4" depth...but I don't think it's entirely unreasonable with this machine. Two complete turns on the wingnut adjustment is app. 1/8". It makes dialing in for neck pockets and pickup cavities a real treat. That's a very comfortable cut for me...may take a few extra minutes, but the overall time saver makes it a no-brainer.

Don...you may recognize this machine...I bought it from Sylvan. I fail to see why you could not use the main objective of this idea for acoustics as well??

[Gordon Bellerose]

I too have seen this on Youtube. The guy's name is Ryan Martin, from Becker Guitars.
I've been wanting to build one of these for myself. Yours looks a lot simpler that the one on Youtube.
I like it.

I don't have a pin router, but I think the jig I just built for doing binding will work for this too. It will hold the router at whatever height I set it at, or float for binding work too.
Of course I would use a smaller, lighter router for binding.