MIMF

A 12" radius changes about 1mm (.040") over a 2" wide fretboard. Unless you plan to get very close to the edges of the fretboard you should be fine inlaying with the fretboard unradiused. That is of course as long as you don't drop the entire level of the fretboard too much when radiu...

Doug, I created a tiled rosette just recently and used a tracing paper backing as you mentioned to keep it all together. I used a 3M spray contact cement that worked well.

As I mentioned earlier and Dave in the last post, 3M sells several "transfer tapes" that will do the job very well. The advantages are, the adhesive stays flexible to allow for the differential expansion, it's very thin, and as Dave mentions it creates a kind of visco-elastic damper that c...

Thanks, I believe the material is acrylic which is the same stuff used for position markers etc.

I would consider an adhesive transfer tape, it's basicall a double-sided tape but is just the adhesive (has no carrier). You apply it like tape and remove the liner and press the two parts together. The advantage is the adhesive alone is only .002" - .005" thick and will allow the differen...

I was at a small local woodshop today and they sell plastic pen blanks of all imagineable colors and patterns. I was wondering if anyone had ever experimented with creating a tiled rosette or other inlay using this or similar materials?

I bought an Alembic P-Bass split coil pickup and active electronics about 30 years ago for a bass I had. I recently came across the pickup but I evidently do not still have the important part...the active electronics. I'm sure 30 years ago I only paid about $150 for the kit, today Alembic wants $100...

A #12-20 is basically a 7/32 - 20, just retap the hole to 1/4-20 and you have endless choices for hardware.

Solid body, a tailpiece is ok but prefer to either anchor strings in the bridge or through the body.

My sister would like me to make an 8 string electric Mandola. I'm not sure what to do about a bridge for it? A lot look like they are custom made or some modification of a Tele or P-Bass style bridge? Can a typical acoustic Mando style bridge work, the only potential issue I see is how tall these br...

Gordon, interesting comment about the bridge saddles. The bridge on this guitar has "V" shaped notches in the saddles, are these supposed to be used as is or filed or something? I wondered about this because I guess some bridges do not have a notch or anything and you're supposed to use nu...

Ken, very nice that looks like what I'm talking about. I didn't think of a 13 fret neck but I guess why not, like you said it seemed to feel right where the bridge wound up. On the classical I built I thinned the fretboard toward the bridge to get relief and it worked well, has anybody tried this on...

I did the capo on the first fret thing and it seems to have eliminated "most" of the problem. I did notice that the neck relief is a little on the small side (.008") and maybe I should increase? The clearance over the first fret when fretted between the second and third is .005" ...

I'm still perplexed...I worked on the nut last night, being careful not to touch the very front section where the strings make contact, it made no difference. I tried shimming the nut to make sure there is plenty of clearance over the first fret, also made no difference. I also tried raising the bri...

I made a couple of classical guitars a while back and was thinking about making the same guitar but a steel string. Of course I would change the plate thickness and use X bracing but is there anything else I should be doing differently? I like the smaller body size and already have the "Fox sty...

The tuners are Grover full-size self locking. As I mentioned since the tuners are self-locking you just stick the strings thru the hole and tune, there is no wrapping of the strings around the posts. I will check the nut..but what am I looking for? What do you think the problem would be? This is my ...

Yeah sorry, the D,G,and B strings are all buzzing. Like I said I thought that I had a problem with the first fret but that wasn't it, if I put a little downward force just beyond the nut the buzzing goes away. Would different gauge strings help, I think I have 10's on?

I guess I should post a picture but do not have one right now. I looked on the Stew-Mac site and a couple of people made comments about the post height on these particular tuners, the string hole is 25mm from the backside mounting, other tuners I looked at were more like 20mm. The fact that the tune...

I'm just finishing an LP jr double cut, and the string angle over the nut does not seem like it's enough? I think the problem is that the string holes in the posts of the locking tuners I bought are really high above the headstock. The strings are at least .25" above the surface of the headstoc...

The thru-neck bass I built does not have a neck angle, I built it more like a Fender neck and just had the neck surface high enough above the body. Just make a drawing with the bridge etc. as everyone suggests to work out the dimensions.