MIMF

I've been using it for 9 -10 years. I can buy it locally and it's manufactured up the road from here. I have always had good results in my finishes.

I wipe the excess glue off with paper towels (I use Ducco cement though).

Great looking instrument! I know wife should be proud of it!

For me, I usually wait 2 weeks after the last coat of nitro cell before polishing.
Also, I don't spray lacquer until it's above 60 degrees F. Maybe, eventually your finish will harden. It may just take a little longer.

Waddy, thanks for video! Some of the time I get a good edge and some times not. It's frustrating! I believe it must be the drop of oil I am not using.

Joel,
The neck angle for the classical and flamenco are different. On my solera, I dropped the the neck by 1 or 1.5mm. On a flamenco, you want the strings near the bridge to be lower than a classical in order to golpe.

010 (267x400).jpg Stephen, I built a Terz guitar last year and gave it to my grandson for Christmas. I used the Scott Antes plan in general. The plan seems to be overbuilt, so I changed the x-brace angle, used 1/4" braces and scalloped. Also used a carbon fiber rod in the neck. And a dovetail ...

Love the sound! Are plans forthcoming ?

Ukulele Blanca! Ole!!

I would probably mix some tint of amber and/or brown with lacquer or whatever finish on the first few coats. Experiment on scraps. Sunshine will oxidize the wood and also a lacquer finish, but it just takes longer!
Good luck. It looks like an interesting project.

I've used quite a bit of stewmac plastic binding. I use "Duco" cement and have had no problems with it. Just remember to wipe the excess squeeze out off before taping the binding to the body.

Here's a tip.....The little suction cups that holds "do-dads" onto your window/sliding glass door/shower makes great pumps to pump HHG or Titebond into a crack!

I'm interested too!

My violin was in a pile of trash on the side of the road waiting to be hauled to the landfill. It was rescued by someone and passed on to me. I am a guitar builder mainly, but the experience of restoring has been valuable and a lot of fun. You can see it in Chet Bishop's thread about an "Old fi...

Peter, thanks for posting this. I had one of these banjo-mandolins to come through my shop about two years ago. It was exactly like yours and had the same problem. There was no label and my research said it came from Sicily. The neck was attached with two "nails", making it nearly impossib...

Freeman, I restored a banjo uke a couple of years ago. The head needed to be replaced and it was a smaller size head than what we see today. I used a goat skin from a supplier of uke things from Texas (can't remember web site). It worked out really well. The look of the skin was in keeping with the ...

You can select the English version on the Grellier web site. Click on the British flag (if I remember correctly). The dimensions are still in metric.

Here's where you can get a set of OM plans for free. Download your plans from www.grellier.fr , put it on a flashdrive and take it to your local Kinkos/etc.

The design on the back had a black mastic inside purfling with bits of abalone (floor scraps maybe?) pushed into the mastic. Over half of the abalone was missing. I decided to mix ebony dust with glue and fill the voids, then level, leaving just a plain black design. (I know it's not original, but t...

Here's one more pic!