MIMF

There are many different methods for laying out the string spacing on the mandolin. I like to start with one string from each course, and as with guitars, you can choose between even string centres , even string space between each string, or you can use a string spacing rule, which gives you somethi...

HHG is great if you can get a nice tight joint with wood to wood contact all the way, that seems unlikely in this case. Since you also broke the front veneer, you'll probably want to replace that too. I'd start over with a new neck.

Thanks for the tip David, I'm going to give those a try. I have been using the Mirka Ceros sander with the Abranet pads for some years now, and it has made finish sanding so much easier.

Build one if you can't afford to buy one, you like tinkering with stuff, or you have ideas for improvements on the commercial models. I built a basic one when I was starting out many years ago, because of those things (at least the first two), and its still going strong. I wouldn't mind a powered fe...

My biggest concern would be humidity control. You can do most wood processing, shaping of parts etc in a non-controlled environment, but unless you can control the RH where you assemble the instrument, it may distort, develop stability issues, cracks etc later. If you decide to use your bedroom for ...

I use a flush cutting 1/4 downcut bit with a bearing on the end. I keep it in a Porter Cable 310, which has a pretty low center of gravity and a big base, so it is quite safe to use hand held for this operation. I use the '8 segment' procedure for cutting from widest points towards waist/end block/n...

There is a lot of variation between the A-style mandolins in the period you mention, many different appointments in the various years, colors, woods used etc., but also in geometry and construction. Generally the early and 'teens ones tend to be thicker, the early '20's Loar era instruments are ligh...

sides are a lot narrower than backs, so the distance moved is much smaller. This, I think, is the main reason sides usually don't crack from dehydration, even if the back does. I sometimes use thicker side reinforcement braces to stiffen squirrely sides, but I make sure they terminate below the top...

Off topic: Vuku, Breim? I had to look this up when I saw the thread title. Vuku and Breim are a couple of really small communities in this country (Norway), Vuku is not far from my home town of Trondheim, but I doubt even most folks here know where it is, it is that remote. Apparently IKEA are namin...

As my father used to say about me, "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing fast." So I use an oscillating spindle sander to rough shape necks, then hand sanding with flat and curved blocks . Hard to beat the draw knife for speed. I hate to produce dust if I don't have to, so I get as close...

For the most part I use a draw knife for neck shaping unless the wood is figured, and go straight from there to a #49 or#50 Nicholson rasp. They are OK, but I hear the older ones were better, before they moved production to Brasil or some such. From there I go to to my Ariou rasps, I have the 10 and...

My own feeling is that electric archtops are different instruments than acoustic archtops, share only the visual aspect, and a laminated top and back, along with a solid block or post under the bridge, makes for a far better electric guitar at the end of the day. One of the things that I find inter...

My experience is that many people use too much oil and whatnot on the fretboard, and this seems to attract more dirt, sort of like too much oil on your bike chain. I don't think fingerboards needs treatment, they will function just fine without it. A bit of cleaning with a damp rag from time to time...

Alan covered a lot, I'll just add that its not just the "3D-effect" that is different if you rub the colors directly onto the bare wood. The colors will also be more uneven, and there is a bigger chance for blotches and mistakes that are difficult to repair when you do this. However, when ...

I used Ø=150mm particle board disks on a Ø=30mm / 700 mm shaft on my home made drum sander. I don't remember how tight the fit between the shaft and the disks was, I suspect it wasn't super tight. I do remember that I used "hardware store grade" (Araldite) slow setting epoxy to attach the ...

Hi Jim, long time! I haven't been around the forums much lately, so I didn't even know there was a MIMF Birthday contest going on, these things are always a lot of fun. Not enough time and too much on the plate for me to join this time, unfortunately. Anyways, this project is great: Mandos, reclaime...

Hi Beate, not sure if you are asking me, but I prefer to shape the neck after joining it to the body, as it's hard to do without fingerboard and neck extension in place. The separate neck extension is for convenience; one less surface to fit while tinkering with the neck joint. It could be attached ...

They are not that hard to do by hand, actually. Just study the geometry, so you have a clear idea of how everything is going to line up, and be precise when marking and cutting. Here are some pictures of a tapered dovetail I did few years back. Marking http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i100/gitarian...

Rick Turner has links to several articles on "the rosewood issue" on his blog https://rickturnerblog.com/2017/03/16/rosewood-in-the-21st-century/ The long and short of it seems to be: All international sales of all rosewood species are banned, domestic sales are mostly OK, and you can stil...

Celluloid binding dissolved in acetone can be used as a regular glue for celluloid bindings, but you have to work pretty fast, which is why I prefer to use Duco; it stays open a bit longer. With either glue, remember to wait a few days before leveling, as the binding will expand because of the aceto...