MIMF

I had the same problem but different brand router. I had to replace my rather expensive Stew-Mac rabbit bit that only had small scratches on the shank with a new one. After that, no problem. The collet had slipped on the one with the scratches, so I replaced it first and it happened again so I repla...

I still use barrel nuts in the tenon so I made this jig for drilling the holes for the nuts, tenon and the mortise. For me it works better if I complete the neck set and then drill the holes for attaching.

You said that this one "came back" . Where did it come back from? Maybe your technique was bad or the glue was bad but the owner might have had a little something to do with it also. Also, how long had it been since you built it?

I fret my boards before I glue it onto the neck too. I don't use any caul at all. I use index pins and a bicycle tire tube cut into about a 1/2 " strip that's real long. You wrap that tight and it's clamped. Also I always check my fret board along the edges especially after I radius it. I use a...

So you might get a "perfect" fit with the neck not attached to the body but where you gonna be when you stick the neck on and the centerline's off in relation to the full length of the body? You might want to leave it and "sneak up" on the geometry by whittling it a little at a t...

This is from the Technical Advisor at Franklin International: Our work has shown that a smooth surface will always have higher strength than a rough surface. Two-hundred grit or higher sanding to get flat or tight-fitting joints works well. Wood glues work by attaching to cellulose on the wood and t...

If the inlays don't mean a lot to you, I would build a simple sled to fit around the neck and take a router to the fingerboard. Once off, install the rods or whatever.

I use a Starrett 24" also, but found a 36" that reads in hundredth's of an inch for setting string lengths to position the bridge on acoustics. It was a "blemished" on E-Bay for about $30. I still don't see why they called it "blemished". It looks fine to me. try Taylor...

Right, mounted to the ceiling with hinges that let it "fold" down into vertical position and all the saw dust gathers into one point

pic of the mold and base. I used a piece of pipe and flange to support the bar. The sanding bar rests around a piece of some kind of plastic stuff I found on side of road. I use the base with my body molds also and replace the bar with sanding dishes, which is not the point of the Kenneth Michaels d...

... top or bottom on the sides. Anyway it's not hard to make one if you have a band saw for cutting the pvc pipe and a router to cut the slots. Only problem is that with every different shape you will have to build a different bending insert for your Fox style bender or else bend by hand over a hot ...

I guess you know that that is a photo of the "Kenneth Michaels Ultimate Guitar Jig" from the Kenneth Michaels website. It adjusts to fit just about any shape of guitar and the post in the middle is for a sanding bar which is flat on one side and radiused on the other to sand the contour in...

Why not... I'm in too.

With all the info on the web, the main thing is to get out there in your shop and start making something. Make the main jigs you will need first. I would suggest you use cheap or even recycle wood for your first. I'm working on my eighth steel string and still haven't bought a book but I've gathered...