MIMF

Veneersupplies.com is my go-to source.

MDF is very flat. I make various sized sanding boards.
My table saw has a large cast iron table that measures flat. I often stick sandpaper to it to flatten fretboards.

I’ve used truoil on necks and bodies. Great stuff.

I tried wipe on poly for a neck.
I did not like the feel, it kind of gripped my hand.
I sanded it with p800 paper and it was acceptable.

I use thinned poly on Maple fretboards.
I thin it with mineral spirits.
I found the minwax wipe on in a can was too thick to obtain a smooth finish.

My local prices are up about 150% before covid. Bubinga and most Ebonies are no where to be found. I have been using some lovely plantation grown Mahogany at $14 board foot. (Woodcraft) it’s a light gold color and seems to be stable. Pre covid real Mahogany was $5 a board foot. My wife tried to get ...

I spoke with a Mohawk dude.
He said if cloudy, it’s contaminated and should be discarded.

I have 1/4 can of behlen instrument lacquer. Bought this year. It is cloudy in the can. I poured in some thinner and stirred it, but still cloudy. I sprayed a couple of coats before realizing I am a dummy. I had the lacquer peel off of a neck, perhaps this lacquer is the culprit. I figure I’ll wait ...

I agree with Barry, use a flat leveling beam.
I’ll add that I now use a six inch long leveling beam.
I found that when using a full length beam, the first few frets were always ground more than the last frets because the last frets are closer together - more material.
So far, my results are good.

I seem to recall Taylor used a 5mA fuse.

I suspect between the wiring ground and the jack grounding lug since the player will only touch strings, bridge, etc that are tied to ground.
Back in the old days a bandmate and I both had non-grounded amps.
I got a good shock touching his guitar while holding mine.

Thanks Barry,
My comment was based on some tests I ran.
I did not think to sand the binding.
Dan

Use acetone or Duco solvent cement.
CA really does not bind to plastic.

Super-cool!

Make sure that the bit is not bottomed out.
I put the bit in, then pull it out a tad before tightening.

I work with veneer a lot.
My veneer vendor suggested lightly scuffing Maple prior to gluing.
Not sure why, but it may pertain only to veneer Maple.

Happens to me all the time. Can’t understand why. I use a flat clamping caul and glue the board to the neck when both pieces are still flat before radius and carving. I reckon glue could be the problem, such as expansion and shrinkage that happens when gluing veneer with Titebond. (i now use veneer ...

I install an eyelet into the bottom where the strap lock will be.
I found hanging the guitar upside down easier to manipulate when spraying.

My son wants a Telecaster, and I've been looking at the StewMac kits, - particularly now as they are all on sale..... Tuners, mic's and stuff are easy to replace, but what is the quality of these kits, - particularly woods and neck accuracy... ? I saw a SM Tele kit someone posted in one of my group...

^^^ I agree.
Lead-free can be a pain.

Very cool!