MIMF

Craig, I would put a binder (Finish or Sealer) in your tint coat, about 1/4 to 1/3 as much as you would normally use for a regular clear coat. If you don't it will come out blotchy looking. Also don't try to do it in one or two coats. Mix your color up very light and spray thin even coats. If you tr...

The one thing you have to take care with when tinting the clear is not to try and go too dark or put a lot of coats on or it will start to turn opaque and you will loose the beauty of the wood grain. The other thing it has a tendency to do is when looking at the wood at an angle it will look a bit f...

I just re-read your post and noticed you said you have some epoxy saturating through the wood. In that case I think your only choice is to tint the clear because anything you do with the wood will not take on those spots (i.e staining or using the Potassium Permanganate). Someone may have a better i...

Have a look at using Potassium Permanganate. It isn't a stain but it is brushed on. It is an oxidizer that will turn the wood brown just as it does with age. I have not used it yet but I am looking to do the same thing on my next build and I ran across this a couple of months ago. Here is a video of...

Hi Jordan, I saw your post in my thread on my parlor but since you started this thread I will answer the best I can here. I am sure others will have more advice for you so mine may be different that some of the more seasoned builders here. I have been repairing guitars for quite some time now but th...

Here are a couple more:

Bob

Jordan, Thanks for the compliment. I finished this guitar in May and have been enjoying it since it has been complete. I am working on plans for my #2 which will be another 1800's inspired design. As for setting the multi strip perfling, it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. I didn't put ...

Todd, Thank you for all this great info. I have a set of Quilted African Mahogany that I will be using on a build in the near future and have been considering using SS2 to aid in bending them so this info is exactly what I have been looking for. For some reason I thought you were put in the Witness ...

Hi Beate, I joined this forum a while ago and have not posted for a while so I hope this is still a valid question. Michael Lewis has a good solution but I would add to it if I could... What I would do is make that same plate for the end of your fretboard but I would take a fret and remove the barbs...

Mario, You might just find the neck bow will come back with bringing the guitar back to normal humidity. It could take a month or more of humidity to see the results. However if it has been dried out for a long period of time it may not come back at all. One way to tell is to put the guitar in a tig...

The guitar most likely needs a neck reset. Almost all Martins do when they get a certain age, and the age of that one is plenty old enough. Chances are it needs a refret too, so consider taking the neck off, pull the frets, sand it level and refret, reset the neck. Mark is correct in how to repair ...

That looks like a wonderful little instrument Patrick.

I am curious what the bracing pattern you used for it?

Would love to hear a sound clip of it.

Cheers,
Bob

Hi Ryan, I may not be the best person to answer this since I just finished my first build but my build was quite perfling heavy so maybe I can help. You can see what I did here: http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3027 I essentially made a modern version of a late 1800's parlor that ha...

You do have to be a bit careful because it is pretty aggressive on soft plasitcs but acetone does evaporate really fast so unless you really saturate it you shouldn't have too much of a problem. I just use a 1/2" artist's brush and slide it between the 2 pieces the length of the jig I make. The...

Acetone works great on ABS plastic. That is what I have used it on for quite some time and have never had one fail. All you have to do to prove it to yourself is just take some shavings and put them in a small container with acetone... They will dissolve in just minutes. As a matter of fact the reas...

I have done it a number of time and it is pretty easy. You can make a simple jig out of scrap wood and some heavy rubber bands as the drawing below. Then just use acetone to weld the plastic together. Start the strips out by welding about an inch of the 2 pieces together then slip it between the woo...

Doug, No it has the standard size linings but the perfling is only .048" and I left the very edge of the top a bit thicker at the edges. So I am pretty sure there is enough top to keep things stable. I also think that because the perfling is laminated (so to speak) it should make the edge stiff...

Gotta say, that's a nice looking guitar. Don't go nuts with complicated engineering with the top bracing, as everyone here is telling you, go as light as you can or the sound suffers. They're right! I over did the bracing on my first sound board replacement and it's OK, but I think it lacks in the ...

Danny, You probably didn't get the glue hot enough and that is why you got tearout. Either that or your putty knife was too sharp or you sharpened on the wrong side. I have gone through about 3 putty knives and have somewhat perfected the tool for how I use it. If you look at the picture I posted yo...

I would agree with Mark, Remove it and re-glue. As he said, if the glue isn't very old it should come off pretty easily. To protect the finish from heat I use a ceramic blanket. I have a couple of them, one for bridges and one for fretboard extensions. I have replaced many bridges (have been reparin...