MIMF

Something I've never gotten right is polishing the finish right up to the bridge. I've been gluing the bridge on pre-finish because I like to string up and test before committing to finishing, but then I can't get an even sanding and polish. Maybe I should go back to masking off the bridge location ...

For what it's worth, I inlaid some scrap MOP into some scrap grandadillo, slotted it, and pressed in some fretwire. I then removed it using StewMac's removal tool. The MOP held up better than the wood, which always flakes up a bit. I did bevel the top edge of the pearl a bit. Just for fun I put the ...

The frets are not in yet, as this is a new build. Getting the inlay under the edge of the fret seems like asking for trouble, as there would be only 0.025" of wood holding the fret. Almost sure to pull out if the fret needs to be removed. I guess the thing to do is just try it on some scrap pie...

Just wondering what people's thoughts are about putting the frets right through the M.O.P inlay on fretboards. I see a lot of guitars where the inlay material stops just before the fret slot, but I've also seen a lot where it looks like the fret slot goes through the inlay. I would like to do the la...

Michael, that sounds like a great alternative to buying a whole machine. What kind of metal do you use? I got some 28 ga. steel to use as a backer plate as Alan suggested, and it did help quite a bit. Problem is when it bends it stays bent; makes it a little tough to use on the next bend, especially...

Thanks Alan. I tried some SS2 on some quarter-sawn cherry, trying to make it easier to bend a cutaway. I couldn't see that it did much of anything. I'll give it a try on this anyway.

I'm having problems with sides warping across the grain when bending. I'm using LMI's electric iron. Over the weekend I was trying to bend some quilted cherry, and it warped really bad. I tried not wetting it first, and that helped, but it was still unusable. In the past I've had a minor problem wit...

Thanks, guys. This is pretty much I what I was thinking.

Hi all, I'm building a Ramirez style classical guitar using plans from Scott Antes. On the plans it says "26.125 string length" but the nut-to-12th fret distance is given as 13.0625, exactly half of the string length. Some time ago I build a classical ala Cumpiano & Natelson; on that o...

I've started bracing tops and backs in the winter, when the humidity in my basement shop is around 40%. I've not had a cracked top since.

Sealing the inside is not a guarantee; it's pretty much impossible to completely seal wood.

Where the heck have I been? This is the first I've heard of angling the saddle slot. How do you cut it?

Ron, I've used the KTM water-based that LMI sells on my last three, and I've been very happy with it. It gives a lot less blue tinge than other water finishes I've tried. I've also used both a turbine HVLP system and a standard compressor setup. I lean toward the HVLP because I get a lot less finish...

You mentioned that you have veneer... if it's not glued to the headstock yet you could cut the outline with a jeweler's saw or small coping saw. I just got done doing that myself. I've always used a dremel with router base before, but I actually think it was easier this way.

Thanks everyone. I think I'll go with the taller but thinner braces on this go-round, and maybe get a little more high-tech on number 7.

Hi everyone, I've got five SS acoustic builds under my belt, and now starting number six. I've been following the C&N book pretty closely, but would now like to start lightening up the top bracing. Any tips, advice, or warnings regarding how much I can reduce the C&N brace dimensions? Sorry ...