MIMF

Heavy inkjet paper. Print them off then seal with a spray of matt varnish then stick to guitar with Titebond original.

[Hi, Bob. I documented my process in this thread. Let me know if you have more questions. https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=6826 -Eric [/quote] Thanks Eric that is great. The tapered plug idea is terrific as is cutting multiple veneers incorporating the purfling and I will be giving this a ...

Looks great, but clip those string ends! First one is always special.

How do you do the binding inside the porthole with that double curvature? I can't get it done without it splitting. I tried using a wide strip over sized then cutting back to the contours of the side but cannot get it into the oval soundhole without splitting. Are they laminated? If so how. Please d...

I use a plastic straw with the end cut off at an angle. The point gets right into the corners and the glue then goes up the straw! cut the end off and its good to go a few more times. Then a quick wipe with a damp cloth. I am using Titebond original, dont think this would work with hide glue.

once glued a heel block on the top surface of a neck that already had the headstock glued on!

Thanks for the replies guys.

Can someone tell me why you should use de waxed shellac on guitars and is there a way to de wax it yourself. The de waxed shellac flakes seem to be much more expensive.

Yes, it matters. As I said above I built a guitar with wood from "the tree". Aside from its beauty I was amazed at the density and hardness of the wood. The guitar had a depth of sound much greater than any mahogany, quilted or otherwise, I've worked with in the past. No guarantee it woul...

One of the main reasons I don't use Tru-oil much is that it probably adds mass and damping, which would hurt the sound on an acoustic. That's not an issue with a solid body. It's not a hard finish, but it's very easy to renew, so it's a good choice for that. I do think it would be a help if people ...

Yes in my limited experience it does. I have also grain filled with clear epoxy with tru oil on top and that works well. Perhaps you could tint the epoxy. Bob

I use Tru Oil and 400 grit sandpaper used together to pore fill mahogany. No compatibility problems that way. If you want to use dark filler then you could use dark coloured sawdust from say rosewood along with the Tru Oil

Jean-Philippe regnard wrote: ↑Mon Feb 07, 2022 3:51 pm so I guess i can use a piece of wood from a live edge for this, such as black walnut

So long as it is properly seasoned I don't see why not.

If its a drop top and highly figured wood I don't think it will make much difference as the grain direction will be all over the place anyway.

Gilbert Fredrickson wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 10:39 pm That's great work.

Sorry for late response. Rosette was lazer curt by a friend in lacewood. I then backfilled with bog oak dust/epoxy mix and added bwb purfling.

A couple more pics

Hi finally got around to finishing off the latest 000 guitar. Lacewood back, sides backstrap and heal cap. Front Alpine spruce, fingerboard bridge and headplate are bog oak. Wilkinson open back black machine heads. inlay all hand cut in mother of pearl and abalone shell. Soundhole ring was laser cut...

Not recommended for necks. Splintery to work with,heavy and not at all stable

Have a look at the ukulele underground forum and the makers tab (the Luthiers Lounge) and a contributor called timbuck. Lots of clever jigs etc. Bob

https://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/in ... lounge.30/

Tru Oil gives a nice finish on a neck. A couple of coats should leave it pretty matt and stop dirt ingress. A bare neck will look pretty grubby quite soon.