MIMF

Barry, Thanks for your input too - i am sure that humidity is the answer, but i dont understand how one plate has moved and the other hasnt when the bracewood is the same and theyve been kept primarily in the same, stable (centraly heated) environment. I like to understand the 'why' as well as the '...

Alan - thanks for your input. I can't see how the humidity would have changed much. I have been keeping the wood (both un-processed and in glued-up form) inside my centrally heated house and taking it briefly into the garage to work on before bringing it back inside. Also, the top (spruce at 2mm) ha...

Thanks for the advice Mario, deep down i thought that's what I'd have to do but it's always good to hear another voice confirm. I assume that it's a purely mechanical procedure - chisel as much off as possible then scraper to remove any glue residue (titebond)? However, i think you overestimate my s...

Greetings folks, Its been a while since ive posted here (life and lack of building gets in the way!), but im working through a ukulelre build that's progressing nicely (ish), but ive hit a snag and id like a bit of advice where to go next. The issue is that the arch I put on the back (hornbeam, with...

Simon - may I suggest you look at '"Wealden Tools" for router bits. They have a much greater range than Axminster, and are superb. I don't know if they deliver to Germany, but I am sure they will do.
Cheers,
Adam

Add my name to the mix please

Adam

Wow. Reading your description, I really didn't think I would end up liking it at all, but it's a stunner. The single thing I find off-putting is the headstock - to my eyes it looks a little too long, and the edge could either do with some contouring or more art-deco lines. That green sparkle finish ...

Count me in too, thanks,

Adam

Brian - I've just had another look at the neck with regard to the relief, now this is with strings at tension. There is a bit of relief - say 1-2/32" between 1st and 22nd fret, in the midline. Would you adjust the truss rod to straighten a little more?

Cheers'
Adam

I haven't made a start yet, due to sorting out other issues at home, but I took a few measurements of the action, if that is of any help. At the 12th fret, with capo, Low E - 2.4mm, High E - 2.0 mm At 12th fret, no capo, Low E -2.7mm, High E 2.2 mm These were taken with a 12" steel rule, so may...

Dear All, Again, many thanks for the suggestions and advice. I had considered removing the neck destructively and replacing with a new neck, but as the neck itself is OK I feel this is perhaps a little wasteful of some nice rippled maple. Plus, I have a slight sentimentality for it being my first ho...

And another few photos of the finished neck plus some WIP shots :
Hopefully that should give you enough info, but if not I can take some more. Thanks for all the help so far.

Cheers,
Adam

Joshua - Thanks for your comments regarding my guitar, and the info + link. The bridge is just a little too close to the neck to allow for spot-on intonation. If you have a look at the pictures below, hopefully it's clear that the saddle is at the extent of its rearward travel (both individual saddl...

Barry - I shall get some photos of the neck joint up. With any luck, i might have some wip photos hidden away. Im not too bothered about the finish - after a couple of years there are minor steps where the maple/walnut strips were inlaid into the body (if you search the forum for 'stripey padauky' y...

Barry - I cant do it right now, but a photo of what area, specifically?

David - Thanks for the input. Perhaps unfortunately there is a glue line on all contact areas of the joint.

Cheers,
Adam

Greetings all, and a Happy New Year, I would like to ask the MIMF collective what would be the best way to remove a glued-in neck from a solid body electric guitar. The guitar in question is my first home-built effort, completed a few years ago and mostly Im happy with it. The sound is good, aesthet...

The small sound hole is no barrier to using a bolt for neck attachment. I'm still very much at the novice end of guitar building, but the two ukes I've built both had bolt on necks. I used a cheap ratchet-spanner-thing with a hex attachment to tighten up. Worked well. The tops I built had a slight d...

Without meaning to sound cheeky or dismissive, perhaps you could find these plans on O'Briens website? They are not expensive, certainly in the context of a guitar build.

Adam

Is this, perhaps, an opportunity for a design feature? I can't quite tell, but if there is a similar crack appearing on the other side, then a contrasting infill of crushed stone (for example - there are many options there) might work. Is it thick enough to be used for a chambered body, and an f-hol...

Not sure if I may be of any help, but I would advise against knocking off the corners, as unless you are very good at graduating the corners from curved to straight, you will always end up with some kind of tramline. However, as you already have the Veritas honing jig, there is a good solution avail...