MIMF

Don't know if this is kosher here but here is a link to my steaming apparatus in action as video.
Don't know if this is kosher here but h ... in action.

So, success at finally getting the neck apart. Yay!! Found an espresso maker steamer at goodwill. bought the stewmac needle. Had to cut down on the end of the tenon to give me a space to steam, plugged the truss rod hole through the heel block, plugged the truss rod hole. Put a block over the joint ...

Barry,
you're right. Having a heck of a time steaming through the holes . Not budging. I could try to plunge cut with dremel multitool at the end of the tenon. Can't figure out how to get a purchase on those threaded studs to push on them either.

trying all kinds of things, am on my 3rd steamer for the steam needle from stewmac. Jiffy steamer didn't work, mccullough steamers is too powerful, found a mr coffee at goodwill with steamer I am trying now. Neck got steamed with the mccullough steamer but then the tubing blew up. Neck didn't budge....

got the steam needle from stewmac and trying to adapt to a jiffy steamer now. That heated up rod definitely needs some hacking.

Actually the dremel multimax has been great for me, smooth, powerful and its about $90.

I have the dremel ossilator saw, the multimax (that thing is amazingly useful), I have used the one from HF but it has lots and lots of vibration. It is fine for very occasional use.

The tenon is so nice and well fitted that I am going to try steam to get the neck off, ordered the needle from stewmac with hose. The hot poker thing from stewmac is "WOW" did I say "wow" very expensive , isn't it.

Wow, it would cost me around $150 to get that heat stick since I don't have the right soldering iron. Maybe go steam needle. Looks like I could build one of those.

I meant the heat stick from stewmac, the one that is basically a copper rod fitted to a soldering iron. Boy, I hate to cut the tenon off just cause of the destructiveness of that :oops: but could be the best thing to do. When using the vinegar, how long to wait before the glue softens and if you don...

Well its a challenge to me now. :shock: I wonder if I should bag it and get the hot rod from stewmac and drill some holes and heat the joint. I will get my friend to pay for it. He is willing. I am trying the vinegar but there is also no space at all at the end of the tenon to the heel block. So, it...

Looks like and seems to melt like the white or yellow glues. Didn't know about the vinegar. Just drip it from the top? of the fb or try to drip in from all sides? I could drill a few small holes in the joint too.

Ok, I have the bridge off, fretboard off, cracked in 2 of course at the join with the angled ramp. So new fretboard. The truss rod was frozen but there was no fillet so I popped it out, was a stewmac looking hot rod and was corroded. NOW, The neck is a bolt in mortise and tenon and heavily glued in ...

all interesting ideas. The wedge idea might work. I think I might just make a whole new bridge. What about a neck reset? Too much back angle to correct? This is an undemanding friend of mine and he built this guitar with a "luthier" Man, mistakes include bridge pin holes that are no reamed...

the front of the saddle slot on the bridge has essentially broken off so I would have to rely on a glued back saddle and saddle and the back of the saddle is really not conducive to clamping forces due to exaggerated slope. I'll see what my friend wants to do.

This one is a very beautiful curly mpl one the guy wants to give to his daughter. My question "is the easiest thing to do here just make another super-thick bridge replacement??? Going to be interesting to heat this bridge enough to get the bridge off. Also find a saddle deep/wide enough to go ...

This guitar was a one off allegedly build with a guitar builder, It also had a cracked top below the bridge in the seam but I got that to close pretty well with humidification after 2 months in my humidified house in the desert of southern arizona. .

image got rotated when uploaded, sorry.

I am repairing a curly maple b&s and neck om size guitar with a 3/4" tall bridge, yes 3/4, with a saddle recess less that 1/4 inch deep and it is canted toward the head stock. I needed a very tall very tall saddle in the shallow saddle slot. So, guess what/ the front of the bridge cracked. ...

Thanks,
I get all of it but the "building board" part. I built a classical with spanish heel and solera (which I hated using) but don't remember very well.