MIMF

A client brought this in with a loose neck, and here's why. What's the best/right way to fix this proper? Or at least your most successful way. I have all the bits and pieces.

I found some online. 3M PR600-56. Thanks all.

I'm working on a Martin 000-CXE. Being it's not made out of wood, what glue should I use to reset the bridge?

Here are a couple more photos of the back of the headstock and the heel.

This came in the other day and I'd love to figure out who the maker is. Any clues?



Here is what's left of the label. "W. Van..." -something?

I ended up lightly brushing retarder on the affected area and it worked great.

Working on an old 0017 and the blushing is pretty obvious on either side of the fretboard tongue, even after trying a gentle wipe with denatured alcohol. Any suggestions?

I'm working on a beautiful old Bruno that needs a neck reset. From all the documentation I've seen online, they have a short dovetail...they seem to end between the 12th and 13th fret. Anyone ever go diagonally from one of those frets, or do I need to remove the end of the fretboard to get in there?...

Before I dig into this old beast I'd like to get some feedback. This guitar needs a neck reset, but I'm not sure if it's a standard dovetail. Also, should I remove the fretboard tongue platform or just loosen the end of the fingerboard? Any experience with these?

My plan was to remove the neck, fix the neck block and realign the loose spruce, then reset the neck.

Also, the binding is pulled away from the body, just at the heel of the neck. I tried to get a feeler gauge under the transverse brace under the fretboard but it didn't seem to do anything. Where did you heat it up in order to pull the neck back?

That's what I was afraid of. I'll show you the issue. It seems to be collapsing at the neck joint and has disfigured the sound hole.

I'm trying to do a neck reset on one of these and I can't seem to find the dovetail pocket going in at the 15th fret. Is there something about these I don't know?

Thanks.

There is no finish on the peg head right now so I wa thinking I could clean the bare wood with acetone. I've tried mineral spirits and naphtha and neither seemed to fix the issue. I've sprayed and sanded off lacquer several times because of this.

I'm re-lacquering an old headstock and even after sanding it clean I'm getting fish eyes in certain areas, but not others. I've tried sanding it and then shellacking it and it didn't help. I was thinking maybe acetone would remove any contaminants that might still be lurking. Would that work?

I did a neck reset on this a few years ago and the client was happy with it until he dropped it.

I have a '59 Gretsch Double Anniversary in the shop that has a broken neck block. I just want confirmation…The only proper way to fix this is to remove the back and replace the block…yes?

Not that I'm looking forward to it.