MIMF

Timotej, it sounds like you have a good plan. About dust, if you had to sand or machine wood in the apartment, you could consider constructing a partition to contain the dust. I have a basement workshop. This is not a living area, but still the space is open and I (and my family) don't want fine dus...

I just had a batch from old flakes (at least five years old, probably not stored as well as yours) that wouldn't completely dissolve at all. Some of it did, but there was a gelatinous glob on the bottom, too. I read in woodworking books not to use it if that happens. Sounds like yours might be turni...

Brass Darkening Solution from Rockler or brown or green patina made by Jax. You can search online for ways to do it with liquids you may already have at home. It just takes longer that way.

Maple doesn't need to be filled. Right. I ask because I have a hard time sanding some pieces of curly maple perfectly level for finishing. Epoxy and shellac both fill the voids fine, but I would enjoy avoiding the second step of sanding that back. My curiosity is if the wet sanding oil-based finish...

Karl, thanks for the experience report. I've often heard of this technique of applying oil-based finishes by wet sanding, and it sounds like a great way to save time filling pores or just to get a level base. Does this cause any issues with clarity or depth in a situation where you want to maximize ...

Very nice! Thanks for the report.

Craig, let us know how your test goes. Oil-based finishes are conspicuously absent from any toner compatibility list I've seen for TransTint and joewoodworker.com lists them as incompatible.

Stellar. Thank you, Jason.