MIMF

Thanks for the input everyone. Decided against crafting something with epoxy filler, must be a new button. One thing is certain, Gotohs don't fit, and since I couldn't find absolute certainty that Schallers would work, I went with replacements ordered direct from Larrivee. Turns out they offer both ...

Broken tuner button on a Larrivee and I am looking for the most cost effective way to replace it. Replacement sets are available directly from Larrivee but they are quite expensive. According to their information what I have in hand is an older model, which uses a conical aluminum bushing between th...

Probably should have reported back earlier but, at least I have good news. The handheld polisher from Adam's Polishes was just the compromise I needed between too-laborious-and-unsatisfactory-anyway hand polishing and the unavailable-at-a-reasonable-price buffing arbor setup. Worked well and even th...

Thank you for taking the time, Bob Barry and Marshall. Dry levelling during the build process with 400P Mirka gold paper went very well. Was able to wet sand with water and Mirka W/D 1200P and 2000P without incident using a fresh white rubber eraser as a block. Again, this went fine. Buffing out by ...

I've been browsing the forum looking for general tips on using EM6000, or to be specific, final sanding and buffing EM6000. I did come across one post which suggested using "thinned mineral oil" as a wet sanding lubricant instead of water. Now, I assume mineral spirits would be the thing t...

Methyl Hydrate is methanol and I use it not by preference but due to availability issues for ethanol. I live in Ontario, Canada under different alcohol regulations than my American friends.

To anyone out there who has used Brite Tone Instrument Finish - how much does it take you to finish a flat-top guitar? How many guitars could you finish with a gallon?

Thanks, Chris.

Yesterday morning I mixed up some shellac using the same method I've been using for years now but with less pleasing results. I am making a "2lb cut" using the proportions on the card that came with the Dewaxed Ultra Blonde flakes which I bought from WoodEssence maybe 4 or 5 years ago. I g...

Small clarification: I am only asking about the mesh or spiral filling I'm looking to put into the pipe. The pipe itself is iron as used in water filled radiator home heating systems. And, I've not yet found copper mesh locally, only stainless.

I am about to make a 2nd bending iron (smaller diameter than my main iron) and I will be heating it with an electric charcoal ignitor. This has worked well enough for me but, I vaguely remember an old discussion about reducing the warm-up time and distributing the temp most evenly along the pipe by ...

I have a client keen to have such a soundboard on his L-00 styled instrument so I am looking at availability. Normally I personally select all my soundboards from a couple of good local suppliers but to get torrefied wood I will have to turn to the InterWebs. So far I have found only two sources. St...

Part of my change in approach is to move away from the tall braces, particularly in the lower bout. Maybe I can rephrase my question more succintly: If I loosen up my bracing scheme and move from a 15' radius back to a 30' radius back, is there some combination of material choice & cut which mig...

Let's set down a few givens, and then I'll pose my question. I build using outside molds and radius dishes. To date I have built with 30' radius imparted to the soundboard and 15' radius imparted to the back. My backs have been braced in the standard ladder manner, but with braces tall enough to mak...

I've started a prototype of a new body shape and decided to make my venetian cutaway flush to the (straight) tapered heel of the neck. Unfortunately I jumped right ahead to building before considering the tooling I've been using for cutting binding/purfling ledges. What I have been using is a Fleish...

Just to clear up Bob's confusion, I believe the schematic is provided by Gotoh who do NOT include the bushings. LMI has created the bushings and their associated tool and tossed them in the mix. For what it's worth, I've not used the 3-on-a-plate tuners. I have used the individual tuners with their ...

Jordan, I am a builder in Hamilton and I would be happy to discuss this in person. If you look at my profile you will find my website, where you can find my contact info.

I always make a flat on the body which is at least the width of the fingerboard at the neck/body junction. After the joint has been fitted you can ease the transition to the rounded shoulders, outside of where the heel meets the body. I assume that you are planning a shaped heel that tapers to a hee...

Matt, the protrusion on the end of the neck is actually the 'tail' of the joint but of course the terminology is not important to your question. Personally I establish the neck angle on the heel before cutting the tail, so though of course it tapers from wider (soundboard end) to narrower (end adjac...

Right after the LMI rod was mentioned, several people acknowledged their love of the Allied rod. They both appear to use the same type of construction. I have used the LMI rod with satisfaction but never tried the Allied rod. Can anyone who has used both provide a comparison?

Indeed the pickguard-mounted controls actually operate the relevant features on the compimentary amplifier. I refer you to a pair that went through 12th Fret in Toronto a short time ago...

http://www.12fret.com/content/2011/12/0 ... -amp-1963/