MIMF

Very cool! I like the way you are putting your own touches in the design. My first flat top build was also a left-handed, an Englemann and Walnut dreadnought. It is disorienting to work to a left handed configuration, and I found myself double checking saddle orientation, nut slots, etc. because it ...

Thanks Bob, Good points on the nut. I have made and modified many nuts over the years, and I've been using a 'tap' method to gauge the string height. I lightly press the string to the 3rd fret top, then file until I can just get a tap or click when pushing the string to the 2nd fret. That and some g...

Thanks, Bob Dressing the frets, etc. has not revealed any problems with my fretting method. I'm really "splitting hairs" at this point, with a desire to get as close to ideal as possible. No one who has received one of my builds has ever made any negative observations, or they haven't noti...

My process has been: - Rip fretboard to the maximum width of the finished taper (eg. the width at the body). - Square nut end, then measure for frets, scoring with a square and knife. - Saw fret slots - shop made jig that clamps the board and keeps the saw 90 degrees vertical. - Taper fretboard to 1...

Not sure which category to post this, so I'll ask here: I use a 25.5" scale and a 16" radius for both flat-top and archtop guitars, and my octave mandolin is 23.5" scale, also a 16" radius. So far, I have been sanding the 16" radius with an 8" block after sawing the fre...

Hej Danny,
How is the reso build going? Been playing mine more and practicing up for an event next weekend, and that has me wondering about your version.
//mike

Hej there Danny and Jim! I'm humbled and grateful that the reso build thread is helpful to you. Plus, I can go back to it and remember what I did :D BTW, The reso has held up really well and sounds awesome. Looks like you are using my idea of a solid wood soundhole assembly. It worked out great for ...

So, I've ordered, paid the invoice via credit card, and my order has shipped via Fedex. 57 B/W/B 10/10/10 x 0.100" wide 34.5" long $1.25 ea, $ 71.25 total 79 B/W/B 20/20/20 x 0.100" wide 34.5" long $2.00 ea, $158.00 total Shipping & Handling $ 29.91 Total $259.16 Delivery est...

Same for me, 64" is preferred for the same reason, and I did ask if that was available. I make my own curly maple or walnut edge bindings 0.060 thick, 0.250" wide in about 34" lengths for mostly practical reasons. That means a joint at the tail end, but not difficult to do well. I can...

So, I've been in contact with Gurian. - Their fiber purfling is available from RC Tonewoods and Allied Lutherie if smaller quantities are desired. - They cannot make the B/W/B 10/05/10 - they do not have the 0.005" thick white material. - They do make the B/W/B 10/10/10 - 54 pc quantity and $1....

Thanks Bob! That sounds like a good alternative. I'll follow up with them...

My supply of laminated wood purfling material is dwindling, and I have not found a replacement source for some of the former LMII sizes, specifically: Black-White-Black 0.030" thick total (B 0.010" - W 0.010" - B 0.010"). I Refer to this as 10-10-10 Black-White-Black 0.025" ...

So, I called Elderly Sales and spoke with Ben. He stated that it is likely just referring to both the front and back edges having binding - as Alan had surmised. Ben said that it's up to the appraisal department to provide the descriptions for used instruments, and they do not always include that in...

I've seen the "double-bound" term used on the Elderly Instruments used postings. Given Elderly's expertise and repair staff skill, I wouldn't interpret the description as bogus or misleading. The listing for a 1995 Martin D-41 states "This attractive Martin D-41 has a double bound bod...

Thanks, Alan
I certainly have worked on some budget guitars that lacked binding on the back edge. I guess Martin and other manufacturers using are using the term as a marketing feature. I don't consider binding on both front and back edges as anything special, rather as almost essential.

Seems like I should know this, but I'm not sure precisely what double binding is. I see reference to this in descriptions of manufacturers guitars, but searching has not yielded a specific description. I am familiar with common bindings and purflings (eg herringbone), just not with this feature.

The real ones are only available on Mark Blanchard’s site. They are all I use and he will make them any length you want.. Thanks Alan and Barry! This just what I needed, and I am very impressed with the Blanchard design and web presence. I'll double check my measurements and get an order placed soo...

Mark Blanchard came up with that design, and has been making them on and off since. His are the best of the bunch. Alan, are you referring to the LMII version, or the Allied Lutherie offering? I see the order information on the Blanchard site, and the pricing seems comparable to the Allied version.

I am reaching the end of my supply of LMII purchased double-acting truss rods. I have had very good experiences with the LMII version. Any recommendations for a new source of truss rods, hopefully with the same configuration?

Great job! I really like Black Walnut for the back and sides for the dreadnoughts I have built. Affordable, locally sourced and attractive. I like the way you "celebrated" the sap wood on the back. What did you use for a pore filler? I've been using an ebony powder mixed with thinned Titeb...